"How did they do that?"

[jenerations]

Hello, I hope I'm not being bothersome now, unfortunately I have lots of questions and not many answers to add to this wonderful forum! I was wondering how these shirts were done. Thanks!



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[steve]

Not a problem--ask away. In fact, I'll make a "How Did They Do This" forum shortly!

These are relatively simple. First draw a line with a fabric transfer pencil or washable marker where you want to separate the two area of color. Make a thin accordion fold along that lineand bind the shirt on each side of the line--it looks like 1/2-1 inch. Dye each side a different color. It looks like the second set of garments might have had bigger pleats.

Steve

[LiveFreeorDye]

I'm not sure those were done with accordian pleats. The dividing line looks very small. Perhaps stitching?

take it easy
Sue

[jenerations]

Thank you, I'm willing to experiment to see how it turns out. How would I do it with stitching?

[HelenaBouquet]

I am wondering how dye is applied over those large areas, do they use a sponge?  When i have tried a sponge it looked like it was going to make lines where it overlapped, so i stopped.

[tiedyejudy]

Thank you, I'm willing to experiment to see how it turns out. How would I do it with stitching?

Using heavy thread knotted at one end (if you can get upholsterer's weight, that works well) and a large needle, you would do a running stitch, such as you would use if you were basting two pieces of fabric together.  When you have stitched the length of the line, gently bunch the fabric by pushing it  toward the knotted end until it has formed accordion folds and is fairly compacted.  Then secure the unknotted end by either tying a knot next to the fabric, or back-stitching  on the fabric nearest to the needle.  This is where I wish I had pictures of all the techniques I use... it would be a lot easier than trying to use words!  One of these days...

Judy

[jenerations]

Thanks very much Judy, no pictures were needed, that was very clear. Now, I've got my garment basted & pulled tight. Now, do I rubber band on each side of that, or just put a color on each side of the stitching?

[steve]

I am wondering how dye is applied over those large areas, do they use a sponge?  When i have tried a sponge it looked like it was going to make lines where it overlapped, so i stopped.

When dyeing a large area, I squirt dye all over the area and take the fabric and kind of wring it and squeeze it to force the dye throughout the area. Put it down, then look for blank areas and squirt more dye in those blank areas and wring it again. Michael used to refer to this as bleeding.

Steve

[jenerations]

Steve, any knowledge on whether I need to rubber band after pulling the basting tight? My quandry is that the line is curved, so the pulled-tight accordion is curved .. and bands will be straight. But it seems to me I must band it?

[steve]

Steve, any knowledge on whether I need to rubber band after pulling the basting tight? My quandry is that the line is curved, so the pulled-tight accordion is curved .. and bands will be straight. But it seems to me I must band it?

Once you pull the basting (If memory serves--as I have not used basting stitches for dyeing in a few years), it will straighten up to a large degree--at least the curve will be much less pronounced. The resist formed by the fabric tightly pulled together will  make some white, but I doubt it will make as much as those in the picture. If you want the definite solid white, you might want to bind  the fabric perhaps a 1/4 inch on each side of the stitching.

Any other takes on this?

Steve

[tiedyejudy]

Thanks very much Judy, no pictures were needed, that was very clear. Now, I've got my garment basted & pulled tight. Now, do I rubber band on each side of that, or just put a color on each side of the stitching?

I am attaching a picture that I used the basting method with.  I simply let the basting resist the dye... no other bands were used.  
In another case, I ran a basing stitch (in a repetitive 's' formation), then when I had pulled the thread snug and knotted it, I put a rubber band in about 2 inches for an additional 's':
 

The dress was made of lightweight cotton crinkle cloth, and I had no difficulty applying the dye using direct application method.  The cloth takes the dye very easily, so I got a mostly solid color in the major portion of the dress.  It would be a little more difficult with cotton jersey, and would require more dye and more manipulation I think.

Judy

[jenerations]

Thanks everyone. I did a 'quick & dirty' experiment in the meanwhile, basted & tied on the left, basted only on the right. In this experiment, I liked the banded better. Judy, I love the kid's shirt you did and I think from looking at that if I am more careful the basting-only might get the results I want. I am not sure how to get more 'dots' than 'lines', that first picture I posted really has dots. Maybe thicker thread and not pulled as tight.

[jenerations]

(I see I assumed it was a kid's shirt. It's a very nice shirt, no matter what the size.)

[tiedyejudy]

I think it was a large sized adult, but no matter.  As for the 'dots', that can probably be achieved by taking care to apply your dyes away from the stitching, and let the dyes migrate towards the stitching.  In other words, when I don't want my colors to blend, I begin to dye away from the stitched or banded area, then slowly work toward that area.  The result is an area that is lighter than the rest, or undyed.  I specifically use this application method on colors that may muddy up if they blend, such as green and purple, orange and blue, etc.  

Judy

[dewms]

I have avoided sewing because I have gotten holes in my jersey knits that way.  Any advice on avoiding that?