Adding soda ash to dye solution OR to fabric?

[Marg]

Hi All! I hope you have been well. I'm curious about what are people's favorite methods. I have always added the soda ash directly to the dye solution as Mike instructs on his DVD. However, I do get stressed out over the "2 hour" sweet spot time frame after which the dyes may not be good. Do you use this method or use the more "traditional" soaking tied items in a bucket of soda ash solution? I'm considering trying another method but don't like the idea of squishing my already-tied items to wring them out since I don't tye them "that" tightly. Thanks. Marg

[dancingbearmama]

Hi, Marg!  What about using a squirt bottle or even a cup to pour dye over your tied garment, then letting it dry for a bit?

peace,
nicole

[pburch]

I couldn't possibly manage activated dye. I have enough trouble not wasting some of my dissolved dye when it's good for a couple of weeks or longer.

Paula

[steve]

I tie them up, soak them and dry them out completely. I keep a shelf of presoaked ready to dye items in the workshop. If I need something quick, I soak it, wring it out, then throw it on top of my deck oven and/or a turbo fan.

I will use activated for workshops though--to avoid having to try to wring them out so quickly and to avoid dyeing shirts that are too wet.

Like Paula, I need a long shelf life!

Steve

[tiedyejudy]

I'm considering trying another method but don't like the idea of squishing my already-tied items to wring them out since I don't tye them "that" tightly. Thanks. Marg

Hi, Marg!  I'm surprised.  If you tried Michael's direct method with the soda ash, why not try his tying method as well?  That has revolutionized my process!  Prior to getting his DVD, I did very little tying... mostly banded everything.  Now, when I remove my garments from the soda ash bath, the folds stay put when I squeeze out the excess liquid.  I also store for several hours to a day (depending on weather conditions) to evaporate a little more of the soda ash before dyeing.    

Judy

[Marg]

O.K. so let me get it straight, you tie the fabric, soak it in the soda ash solution (in a bucket), then squeeze out the fabric and let it dry out and then dye with unactivated dye?

[steve]

O.K. so let me get it straight, you tie the fabric, soak it in the soda ash solution (in a bucket), then squeeze out the fabric and let it dry out and then dye with unactivated dye?

That's what I do. I prefer to dye with absolutely dry fabric--but that's me. It results in stunning color intensity. Additionally, the white areas can absolutely resist dye resulting in very white white areas of the fabric.

There are drawbacks. You go through incredible amounts of dye with this technique--12-16 ounces minimum per shirt. Bleed areas are unbelievable. On a large shirt you can go through nearly 16 ounces of dye for those areas alone. (For bleed areas, I sometimes spritz the fabric slightly to help work the dye through because when the fabric is dry, it doesn't go anywhere.)

You also have to pay close attention the coverage of the dye and it can be very difficult to work the dye into areas that are somewhat caked with dry soda ash.

Steve

[Marg]

Yes, I early learned a preference for a totally or almost totally dry fabric before applying the dye. What I'm trying to figure out now is if there are enough advantages for me to start soda soaking vs. activated dye. I usually have some dye that gets wasted but I don't have to deal with buckets/soaking/wringing. Thank you all for your sharing of method (and madness!) Marg

[Kathy]

but I don't have to deal with /wringing.

I now place my soda soaked items in the washer and let the spin cycle spin out the excess soda solution. I then let them sit and dry a bit more.

Kathy

[Vyxxan]

but I don't have to deal with /wringing.

I now place my soda soaked items in the washer and let the spin cycle spin out the excess soda solution. I then let them sit and dry a bit more.

Kathy

This is what works for me, too.  I soda soak, wring out in washer, then tie.  Then I can let em sit for whenever I get to dying them.  Usually not long, as I like my items slightly damp.  I put em all into plastic garbage bags to keep them slightly damp for a day or so.

I tried folding (damp) and tying and then soda soaking, but I wanted stuff ready NOW and tried to wring in washer.  Some folds came apart.  Better to have the soda soak on for the folding and tying bit for me.... even if I do have to wear gloves to protect my skin.

I go thru a lot of disposable gloves, lol.  

Vyx

[ecilA]

I soda soak in the washer most often and spin out *then* either fold damp or dry and then tie.  As, was it Steve? mentioned, working with dry fabric does cause alot of bleed but it also allows one to take great advantage of haloing (color seperation).

[salkina]

I only dye sheets of cotton muslin for tapestries because doing shirts bothers me more than anything ever. I dont really know why, but I think its because I dont have to fuss with shirt seems when doing tapestries, and I can also make more intricate designs. I recently started folding the muslin while it was lightly moist so I can get better creases. Once folded/tied and all that jazz, I soda soak it and then let it fully dry, depending on the folds. If the design calls for only a few layers of fabric, I typically dye it while its damp to avoid creaping.

What i found that works best in all situations, dry or not dry, is using generous amounts of salt. Once I lay down a section of dye, I allow it to saturate through the layers of that area, and then cover that area with salt. In my opinion this also brightens the colors and when making tapestries it also allows you to not have to wash the fabric once everything is unfolded. I wouldnt recomend salt for shirts, as it hardens the fabric to the point where it would be uncomfortable to wear.

[2D4]

Hi All,

I'm in the Vyxxan and ecilA boat....I soak in soda ash, wring out
by hand or spin out in the washer, fold slightly damp, then dye.
Sometimes I wrap in plastic, sometimes I just set them on large
plexiglass sheets and put them in a sealed warmer cabinet.

I fold a whole bunch at once, stack them in a storage box, put plastic over it
if I'm not going to dye them right away, then later dye...dye....dye!

Jo