MX dyes and tapestries

[Marg]

Steve and other tapestry dyers: O.K. I just did some lwi with kaleidoscope-folded twin sheets and had some pretty results. My main complaint is that the exposed layer took the dye darker than the rest. I am planning on trying some MX tapestries (direct application technique) this weekend and am hoping for some last minute advice. I am wondering about thickening the dye solution or perhaps not thickening at all...Any comments or other pointers? Thanks, Marg

[steve]

This is a complex topic!

First of all, you need to consider the nature of the fabric. What is the thread count? How heavy is the fabbric? How heasy closely woen is it? The lower thread counts of loosely woven fabric that is lighter makes it easier to penetrate the layers and can be worked more like you would a t-shirt. Higher thread counts/heavier weight /tightly woven fabric makes it more difficult. Savannah lawn from Kaufman's works best. It has a higher thread count than most muslins, yet it is very light with very thin threads.

I still thicken the dyes as thickening the dyes helps control the lateral movement of the dye (BTW--higher thread count, heavier fabric that is dense makes for more lateral motion within the layers of the fabric). When working with more difficult fabric, I thicken less. To me one of the most important things for control and aplication of dye for tapestries is the size of the nozzle of the yorker spount. A smaller nozzle makes it easier to control the flow of a thinner dye on the fabric. I have a separate set of squeeze bottles for tapestries--I really like the 16 ounce jacquard bottles.

When applying the dye, I like to apply it at about the same rate as the absorption of the dye by the fabric. I generally go back and reapply the dye several times allowing it to soak in. When I finish with the other colors, I general go back over it again, and perhaps a third time. Addtionally, it's good to get the spout right down into the folds. Really densely fold areas need more attention. Physically squeezing the dye into the fabric also helps.

That's what comes to mind to begin with! I'll add more when other thoughts come to mind.

[Marg]

Boy Steve, you're not kidding about the fabric. I sat there and watched the dye roll right off the piece and onto the newspaper. I quit early after two pieces, I'll see tomorrow how they turn out. I was thinking as I sat there looking at that folded sheet sitting in a pool of dye...about a guy on the old Forum that said he did not thicken his dye and used sponge brushes to apply the dye. I think that would work a lot better. I might try that. Marg

[steve]

I usually dye with easier to work with fabric, but it sounds like a rayon blend I tried working with. Have you considered a few drops of synthrapol in the dye to reduce beading and surface tension?

I just can't get myself to use a brush , but there are many who do  and get outstanding results. We all have our own ways!

I really like Kaufman's pfd fabrics for this: the best is Savannah Lawn, the Kona Cotton and Pimatex. Stuff is expensive unless you can get it wholesale. I have an account with them and have considered selling it over the internet at somewhat more reasonable prices, but there doesn't seem to be much interest.

Steve

[ecilA]

Steve, your mention of nozzle size reminds me to mention, some find a farm syringe to be quite useful (tips ground off the needles).  They are nice for getting right where you want to get with the dye and also nice for gradation mixing.