Lots and Lots of questions, mostly about batik but a few general questions

[sandramort]

I've dyed a couple of times before, but it's been a year or more, so bear with me... I've got procion dyes and other goodies from Dharmatrading.  I want to do lots and lots of colors, patterns, yadda yadda yadda.

Can I make up my waxed fabric for batik, let harden, put in a plastic baggie and pour dye over it for a not-too-wasteful bath of dye? 

How do I know if it's a small enough to call low or larger for high?  I think I sort of understand the difference in terms of how will look, the low is more of a mottled, crumpled look, but the high is more of an even shade through the garment? 

Will placing the garment in a baggie crush the wax too much?  If I'm

If I take a garment and dye a section with full strength dye, then add water to the dye and dye the section next to that, then add water and dye the section next to that... etc... will I end up with a garment with a graduated lightening of the color?  If I don't use any ties and am somewhat generous with the dye so it bleeds, will it be more gradual and less like discrete stripes?

I've got foam q-tips and tjan-whatever those tool things are called.  Is there any sort of requirements for paintbrushes that are safe to use with melted wax?

What's the most efficient way to work with a lot of small items in different colors?  I'd been thinking of making up master bottles and using small bottles to make up one item's worth of mixed up color at a time?  Is it more efficient to wax up everything, let it harden, then soda ash whatever needs to be ashed, then let that dry, and dye as I find time to do a few pieces here and there?  I've got three small children -- spare time is hit and miss.

When i've got items folded up and I'm squirting dye over the folded and dyed pieces, how do I know that the stuff has made it all the way through?

Do I really really really need to rinse the dye out before I toss it in the wash with synthropol?  Washing it until it runs clear takes SO long -- probably longer than any one of the other steps!  If i could just take the tied garments and throw into a synthropol and cold water wash without prerinsing, I'd be a much MUCH happier camper.

How do you keep from wrecking your floor, counters, etc?  I normally dye outside (colorful porch indeed!) but the mosquitoes are eating me up alive and frankly, it's HOT outside!

Any more sage advice?  I promise to upload photos of the stuff I make.  I've got blanks for making baby clothes, adult t-shirts, cotton gauze scarves, cotton flannel yardage, TONS of prefolds (both handmade and purchased) and fitted diapers and some more stuff that I can't think of offhand.

Thanks!!!
Sandra

[steve]

I haven't domne any batique, so I can't really address those questions, but I'll address shat I do know.

How do I know if it's a small enough to call low or larger for high?  I think I sort of understand the difference in terms of how will look, the low is more of a mottled, crumpled look, but the high is more of an even shade through the garment? 

If I take a garment and dye a section with full strength dye, then add water to the dye and dye the section next to that, then add water and dye the section next to that... etc... will I end up with a garment with a graduated lightening of the color?  If I don't use any ties and am somewhat generous with the dye so it bleeds, will it be more gradual and less like discrete stripes?

What's the most efficient way to work with a lot of small items in different colors?  I'd been thinking of making up master bottles and using small bottles to make up one item's worth of mixed up color at a time?  Is it more efficient to wax up everything, let it harden, then soda ash whatever needs to be ashed, then let that dry, and dye as I find time to do a few pieces here and there?  I've got three small children -- spare time is hit and miss.

When i've got items folded up and I'm squirting dye over the folded and dyed pieces, how do I know that the stuff has made it all the way through?

Do I really really really need to rinse the dye out before I toss it in the wash with synthropol?  Washing it until it runs clear takes SO long -- probably longer than any one of the other steps!  If i could just take the tied garments and throw into a synthropol and cold water wash without prerinsing, I'd be a much MUCH happier camper.

How do you keep from wrecking your floor, counters, etc?  I normally dye outside (colorful porch indeed!) but the mosquitoes are eating me up alive and frankly, it's HOT outside!

Any more sage advice?  I promise to upload photos of the stuff I make.  I've got blanks for making baby clothes, adult t-shirts, cotton gauze scarves, cotton flannel yardage, TONS of prefolds (both handmade and purchased) and fitted diapers and some more stuff that I can't think of offhand.

Thanks!!!
Sandra

As far as low and high goes, I assume you are talking about low water immersion, etc. It doesn't rally matter what it is called--you could do either of a hybrid of the two techniques. With high water immersion, you do tend to get more even colors, but this is also dependent on the amount of motion that the fabric experiences during the process. With low water immersion, things can get fairluy even if you move the fabric a lot.

As far as gradations goes, someone here posted some technigues to achieve that effect--you might try a search. Overall, you are on the right track with diluting the dye and yes the effect would be more gradual without ties. You might be surprised by how much you will need to dilute the dyes. This is not something I have done though.

I don't tend to mix colors much, but having master solutions is a common technique for those who mix colors. Most refer to them as stock solutions. Some keep them more concentrated. If you refrigerate them, they will last a long long time. I know what it is like with children and dyeing time!

To mkae sure the dye has gone through, I sometimes separate the folds with a finger of a utensil and peak in. I also use the technique of adding dye at about the rate that the fabric is able to absorb it--gradually letting it soak in well.

Some people throw the dyed items into the washing machine--not a problem. I've seen it done. It works, although I tend to give things a little rinse myself.

All I can say about the mess is to use an area that is easy to clean--kitchen not recommended. Clean up any stray dye the second it hits a surface--otherwise it will spread insidiously. Maybe you can buy a cheap screen tent.

Steve

[tiedyejudy]

When i've got items folded up and I'm squirting dye over the folded and dyed pieces, how do I know that the stuff has made it all the way through?
Experience helps here... I have found that using dye that is thickened, taking a little time to get the spout into the folds, and checking by spreading the folds from time to time, will let me know if I have covered most of the fabric.   
Do I really really really need to rinse the dye out before I toss it in the wash with synthropol?  Washing it until it runs clear takes SO long -- probably longer than any one of the other steps!  If i could just take the tied garments and throw into a synthropol and cold water wash without prerinsing, I'd be a much MUCH happier camper.
I used to rinse a lot before putting my dyed garments into the final wash.  Last year, I followed the suggestion of Michael Fowler from his DVD:  I remove the string or bands from the garment, and put it directly into the wash water which has synthrapol already in it.  I have a washer with a 2-rinse cycle option, so I run it through that and have had no problems.

How do you keep from wrecking your floor, counters, etc? 
I have a laundry room with a rinse sink.  I can use the washer/dryer surfaces to dye on, then I wipe up thoroughly when I am done.  I use paper towels under the items I am dyeing, and change them each time.  Usually 3 layers will do it.  I have also tried putting newspaper under the paper towels, but the printer's ink ends up staining the surface, so I have a harder cleaning job.  My floor is vinyl, so it cleans up easily.  Procion dyes are designed to dye natural elements, not synthetic such as vinyl.  And the surface of my washer/dryer is enamel, which cleans up easily. 

[Lenora Of The Mice]

Can I make up my waxed fabric for batik, let harden, put in a plastic baggie and pour dye over it for a not-too-wasteful bath of dye? 

I don't see any reason why not. You may want to keep it moving, just to get a nice even color.

How do I know if it's a small enough to call low or larger for high?  I think I sort of understand the difference in terms of how will look, the low is more of a mottled, crumpled look, but the high is more of an even shade through the garment? 

depends on how you fold it, but generally, yes.

Will placing the garment in a baggie crush the wax too much? 

I don't think so, but again, it depends on your desired effect. If you want the least cracking, get a vat. and if you want lots of cracks, crumple away. I suppose it would also depend on the size of the piece and of the bag and how much wax is on the fabric.

If I take a garment and dye a section with full strength dye, then add water to the dye and dye the section next to that, then add water and dye the section next to that... etc... will I end up with a garment with a graduated lightening of the color?  If I don't use any ties and am somewhat generous with the dye so it bleeds, will it be more gradual and less like discrete stripes?

yes. You can also do a gradation by just dipping one end in dark dye, and letting the dye bleed upward into the fabric. it's smaller.... but it works for me.

I've got foam q-tips and tjan-whatever those tool things are called.  Is there any sort of requirements for paintbrushes that are safe to use with melted wax?

Foam q-tips I would discourage, just because plastics tend to melt. Brushes should be natural hair, because acrylis bristles warp and get quite wonky if not molten. I suppose it would depend on the melting temperature of your wax, but they don't vary THAT much. you can use whatever you like, it's your project!

What's the most efficient way to work with a lot of small items in different colors?  I'd been thinking of making up master bottles and using small bottles to make up one item's worth of mixed up color at a time?  Is it more efficient to wax up everything, let it harden, then soda ash whatever needs to be ashed, then let that dry, and dye as I find time to do a few pieces here and there?  I've got three small children -- spare time is hit and miss.

I would mix up a bunch of dyes ahead of time, not every color, but the basics, blue yellow red. and mix the secondary colors from those when you need them. Procion dyes have a long shelf life, you can reuse dye a few times over. Of course each time it gets more diluted, but it's still a good thing to do.


YUP! I hope I helped at all any

[kberii]

From one newbie to another, watch out for the dye!!!!  I used my garage to dye and I thought I cleaned up pretty well.... well the next time I put a garment down a what would you know there was some dye powder NOT cleaned up from the time before!  It was like all my nice, neat, folded (painstakingly) shirts were finding every spec of dye I did not clean!
Lucky for me it was more of a practice run, so I did not feel I lost or ruined shirts. 
I will set up differently next time, and be very careful to clean up all where the dyes have been mixed.  AND i will not use the area where I mixed to be where I have shirts!!!!