Just DYING to know...

[NicCuinn]

Ok, so I am a dork - but that was funny when I thought of it

My friend and I have recently gotten addicted to tie-dying, and have run into a few problems that we need some advice on how to fix.

First of all, we are using RIT dye - is this acceptable, or should we be using something with a little more... quality?

Secondly, we have been mixing and using according to the package directions, minus the laundry detergent (like you just have laundry detergent sitting around at your house??) - does the laundry detergent make that big of a difference?

Should we be using soda ash? (We arent...) and where do you get it? Regular stores or do you have to order it online? What does soda ash do?

And the big problem is this: How do you keep the white parts of your shirts *bright white*?
All of the shirts that we have made were using bottles to direct the color, and then we put them into the oven on low heat (which really did pep-up the color) and then hung them outside to dry, dye in. At this point, they looked GREAT - the colors were vibrant and pretty, and the white areas were nice and crisp.
Then, we washed them out, and it kinda looks like the colors washed out - and the dye ran into the white parts and tinted them (mostly red), and also muddied all of the colors a bit.

What are we doing wrong??

Thanks!!
~Nic

[Snugglebug]

Nic

First, step away from the Rit, put it down and back away...    It's the wrong kind of dye for tie dye.  There are several threads explaining why, which leads me to my second suggestion... read, read, read.  This forum is LOADED with information on almost anything you could want to know about the process of tie dying from folds to different application methods.  There is an amazing amount of talent and knowledge here. 

You need fiber reactive dyes.  You can order them from several online sources.  You need soda ash.  You can get this at a pool supply store (pH Plus) or order online also.  Synthrapol is a textile detergent that will prevent staining of your white during washout.  As before, I order mine online.  I'm not going into alot of detail here because there are far better answers found within these threads.  I can't tell you how much I've learned here and Paula's website too. 

These are a couple of links that I couldn't live without, besides this one
www.pburch.net
www.dharmatrading.com

[NicCuinn]

Thanks, Jen!!
I figured as much about the RIT - but I was being polite just on the off chance that it was acceptable

I have been and will be browsing the forum, too, and thx for the recc on the type of dye! I have been reading and wondering what the heck synthrapol was - and you answered that, too! LOL

Thanks a bunch!!

[pburch]

And the big problem is this: How do you keep the white parts of your shirts *bright white*?

You can actually do without Synthrapol, but as Jen said, you can't do without good dye. If you use Procion MX dye, let it react with the fabric longer than necessary in the presence of soda ash (overnight in a warm room is good), and then wash out enough times in hot water (starting with a cool rinse), any backstaining will wash out of the white sections, and your brights will stay bright.

You said that you were mixing and using the Rit dye according to the package instructions, but then you said you were using bottles to apply the dye. Is the Rit dye package saying you can use room-temperature dyes now? They used to say you had to dip part of your shirt into a simmering hot pot of dye, and that's still what they say on the Rit Dye web site. It takes a lot of heat and time to get the dye in that kind of hot water dye to to make any real attachment to the cotton, though even when you do it right, it's never nearly as good as Procion MX dye. To get any kind of acceptable washfastness with all-purpose dye, you still have to apply a commercial dye fixative, such as Retayne, and the colors are never as good; it's just so much easier to start with quality fiber reactive dyes to begin with, and leave the all-purpose dye (and Retayne) alone.


Paula