Soda ash

[patmcneil]

Hey all. I did some sheets for my son after watching the True Tie Dye video. I soaked it in soda ash and let it dry. I was doing a mandala. The dye seemed to just run off the dried fabric and I ended up with more white than I wanted in the middle. I feel like I really got down into the folds but the dye just ran instead of soaking in. I'm wondering if other people soak certain things and then let them dry?
Thanks,
Pat
 

[ecilA]

My first question would be was it a new sheet?  If so, check for coatings, stain and wrinkle guarding.  These coatings inhibit absorption of dye.  They can be removed with muriatic acid but...not something I personally want to play with.  Take a look around second hand stores for sheets, those old used sheets will have lost their finishes which will help with dye.  That or make sure that the sheets your purchase are free of these finishes.

If that wasn't the problem, I have found some fabrics to be difficult in uptake, if your dye is just beading and rolling off try placing the nozzle of your bottle or tip of the needle (if you use a syringe) right on the fabric and go drop by drop until the fabric starts getting thirsty, sometimes it just takes some very careful application to get the dye absorbing.  I've noticed this phenom in particular when dealing with hemp/cotton blends and dry fabric dyeing.

And yes, to answer your question, I often dye on dry ashed fabric, it really just depends on the design as to how I will approach it, that is, dry or wet.

[patmcneil]

Let me ask this and I know it depends on a lot of factors, how long do you let it dry?  Do you let it dry completely and totally or do you let it dry on the outside and maybe be a tad damp on the inside? Also what determines which designs you do dry and which you do wet?
Thanks

[ecilA]

Those things I dye dry are dried completely, either on the line or in the dryer, before they are folded.  The one caveat on dryer drying soda ashed goods is that you don't want to put something with frayed strings in a very hot dryer (such as the laundromat) because (I have heard tales) of potential fire issues.

Things I tie with sinew are always dry and those I use rubber bands on are always wet.  I use sinew for icons, mandalas, really the more intricate designs and use rubber bands for things like spiders, spirals, scrunches, wavy lines etc...the one exception to what I've said here is that I do use rubber bands or sinew on hearts just depending on the type of heart I'm making.  For example a heart surrounded by neat rings would be done on a dry sinew tied shirt and one surrounded by scrunch would be folded wet and secured with rubber bands.

Anyway, dry fabric is thirsty so it's a nice way to get saturation with a tightly folded piece, but be aware that dry fabric can also lead to the haloing effect and that is something you may or may not want.  I like to try to take advantage of it.

[steve]

Hey all. I did some sheets for my son after watching the True Tie Dye video. I soaked it in soda ash and let it dry. I was doing a mandala. The dye seemed to just run off the dried fabric and I ended up with more white than I wanted in the middle. I feel like I really got down into the folds but the dye just ran instead of soaking in. I'm wondering if other people soak certain things and then let them dry?
Thanks,
Pat
 

I like to dry soaked and folded items out thoroughly before dyeing. In doing so, I have found that dye penetration can be difficult--but the results make it workwhile.

I like cotton string.

Dried fabric may be thirsty, but it can also resist the absorption of liquids. It may seem counter-intuitive, but that is my experience--thirsty while resistive (How can it be both? I love paradoxes )

I have found the following to be helpful:

• Plan on using tons of dye--especially for bleed areas--20 oz is not unusual
• Add the dye at a rate no faster than the fabric can absorb it
• Return to each color area repeatedly
• Press that tip in deep
• Physically press and sqeeze the fabric to help force the dye through
• Stick your fingers into the folds to make sure the dye has been absorbed in the middle areas

Additionally you may try:

• Spritzing the surface of the tied and dryed surfaces lightly to encourage the absorption of dye
• Adding a few drops of Synthrapol to the dye solution to break surface tension.

You may also consider using activated dyes as opposed to the soda soak method.

Steve