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Author Topic: Gonna start Dying  (Read 1411 times)
MikeyMouse
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« on: January 23, 2007, 02:08:34 AM »

Greetings Dyers
For some reason, just last week i suddenly decided to create my own hippie tie die shorts and t-shirt.
I remember doing this back in school when i was about 13 or so. but the details are kinda fuzzy. I've read a few of the posts and guides on this forum, but something still confuses me.
I remember when we did this in school, we tied up the cloth with 3 seperate parts of string. threw ball of cloth into a bucket of dye. waited (no idea how long), then took out the bundle. cut away one piece of string, threw then put the bundle into a different bucket of another color. waited then removed another piece of string, and put it in a new bucket.
Now maybe i'm remembering this wrong, cause i can't find anything on this forum about "how long to wait before putting the bundle in a new colour" and whether to run cold water over the bundle first. etc.
Gonna wait till the weekend to try this, so if i get some nice replies to this i might post up some pictures of the results...
(I've bought packets of yellow, blue and red dye)
should be a funky t-shirt grin
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pburch
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« Reply #1 on: January 23, 2007, 03:36:13 AM »

That sounds like the old traditional method of tie-dye, which was necessary when hot-water dyes were all that was available. Now that modern cold-water reactive dyes are available, most dyers don't want to go anywhere near those dreadful old all-purpose dyes. You can still use the same technique with the better dyes if you wish, or you can use a variety of other techniques.

If you're using all-purpose dye, such as Rit brand dye, be sure to use HOT water, as hot as possible, preferably at a simmer, 190°F or higher, for half an hour per dye color; this will help the dye stick to your fabric better. Cool water is not appropriate for applying all-purpose dye. Be sure to use only natural fibers, as with most dyes, not synthetics such as polyester. When you are done applying the dye, rinse it out in cool water and then use a commercial dye fixative such as Retayne, which you can buy by mail-order or from a good quilting supply store if you have one, to help make the dye stick better. This is required in order to prevent the dye from running in the laundry, as that all-purpose junk bleeds forever. Neither vinegar nor salt can act as a dye fixative for all-purpose dye. Note that you should not reuse a dyepot for cooking food, which makes hot-water dyes more expensive, as far as the initial investment goes, than cold-water dyes which do not require a cooking pot in order to perform their best.

If you buy some good fiber reactive dye, such as Procion MX dye, the next time you dye, you'll be excited to find what bright colors are available, and how much easier the application technique is. Later, you'll be happy to find that the dye lasts almost forever, and it's safe to wash Procion-dyed clothing in hot water with white clothing in the same load, because the stuff simply does not bleed, once the initial wash-out of excess dye has been done. You can still use the immersion method for tie-dyeing, just as before, if you prefer, but the color range available is wider and brighter, and using cool water (70° or higher) is just so much less trouble. Soda ash works great as the dye fixative.

Paula
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steve
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« Reply #2 on: January 23, 2007, 05:54:19 AM »

Check out the sister site:

http://tie-dyewiki.com
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MikeyMouse
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« Reply #3 on: January 23, 2007, 06:00:38 AM »

thanks for the awnser paula
i guess i do have those heat dyes you were talkin about. the packet mentioned something about microwaving. pity, they were expensive too. 4€ per colour.
I'll give it a go anyways, and see how it turns out.
u mention i can still try the imersion method with this other cold dye. is there any other method than to immerse the cloth?
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MikeyMouse
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« Reply #4 on: January 24, 2007, 02:21:29 AM »

Okay, i've checked out the dyes i've bought. turns out they are Dylon ones and require heat. it recomends microwaving the fabric on the side.
but i'm still not sure how to get a multi colour effect.
do i just remove one of the pieces of string, hold the cloth under cold water, then microwave it in a different colour?
wouldnt think make the parts of the cloth that weren't covered by string just go purple brown?
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pburch
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« Reply #5 on: January 24, 2007, 02:50:01 AM »

Which Dylon dyes are they? Do they identify themselves as Dylon Hand Dye, Dylon Cold Water Dye, Dylon Permanent Dye, Dylon Multi-Purpose dye, or any other specific Dylon line? If not, can you give the specific number and name of each color? This will sometimes aid in identifying the dye class of a Dylon brand dye.

Paula
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MikeyMouse
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« Reply #6 on: January 24, 2007, 03:28:44 AM »

I'll check it out when i get home... i think it said hand dye
said 4 mins in the microwave with a plastic cover over the top...
will read the full instructions tomorrow
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pburch
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« Reply #7 on: January 24, 2007, 03:56:13 AM »

The only instruction sheet I see at Dylon that mentions microwaving is this one:
http://www.dylon.co.uk/information/brochure/Webcwc.pdf [PDF]
It mentions that microwaving can be used for special effects with Dylon Hand Dye, but doesn't say any more about it than that. The instructiuons say to mix the hottest available tap water with salt and add the dye, then the fabric. To get a single solid shade, it says to agitate continually for 15 minutes, then occasionally for 45 minutes.

Dylon Hand dyes are a mixture of Drimarene K and Vinyl Sulfone dyes. These are good fiber reactive dyes, unlike all-purpose dyes such as Rit dye or Dylon Multi-Purpose. They contain the soda ash, or a substitute, already mixed in, which limits the versatility of how you can apply it. Drimarene K and Vinyl Sulfone dyes like to have a little more warmth than Procion MX dyes, ideally 60°C (140°F), but they don't require extended boiling like all-purpose dye, direct dye, or acid dye.

The simplest way to use this type of dye in an interesting manner would be to adapt the recipe for low water immersion dyeing. You can tie the fabric first or not, as you prefer. Put the fabric in a small container; dampen the fabric with part of thte total amount of water called for in the package instructions; mix each dye color, separately, in part of the remaining water. Pour different colors on different parts of the fabric. Make sure to only just barely submerge your fabric in the dyebath, rather than using an excess of water as you would for a smooth solid shade. Do not stir or poke your fabric, as doing so will mix and distribute the dye more evenly. Make sure the dyebath is warm, either by starting with hot water, or by placing the container in several inches of very hot water in the sink (be careful it cannot flip over), or by covoring the container tightly with plastic wrap and microwaving one minute at a time, watching very closely and stopping the cooking if the plastic is balloooning upward as though it might blow off, just long enough to get the dyebath very hot. (Do not use the microwave if your shirt has any metal on it.) Then leave the dyebath to cool gradually for half an hour or an hour before washing oput the excess dye with hot water.

If you want to do a traditional multi-step tie-dye, tie the shirt before putting it in the first color of dye, allow the full dye reaction, rinse out and untie, then tie a different way and repeat the procedure with another color.

The main drawback of using Dylon dyes seems to be the fact that you never know quite what you're getting. The red you buy might have yellows or blues mixed in, which might or might not work well with the other colors you buy. It's hard to get intense colors with the squirt-bottle tie-dye technique when using Dylon dyes. The dyes themselves are high quality, permanent dyes, though.

Paula
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MikeyMouse
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« Reply #8 on: January 24, 2007, 11:20:02 PM »

Wow, you sure do know your dyes
that link is exactly the one i have (the hand dye one)
thats some great advice, i'll see if i have time to do this stuff over the weekend. then i'll post up some pics to let ya know how i got on, thanks so much paula
 cool
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