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Author Topic: using bath?  (Read 918 times)
Cairo-Dye
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« on: July 28, 2007, 05:32:50 AM »

hi...
1st of all i want to thank you for all this effort you are doing here guys...
it's really helping a lot... but for me i have a small problem:
i live in Cairo Egypt, and there is no access here to these Tie dye kits you using or these amazing sprays!
so all we have here is a stones of color we melt into hot water and sink the disk in it... and with need to apply vinegar after ...
the problem is i use rubber strings and the color goes through the t-shirt completely... and i don't know what's the best thing to die using the old fashioned bath method...
please give it more space in your How to's , and tell me what do do..
thanks again..
and have a great day...

Ahmad
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pburch
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« Reply #1 on: July 28, 2007, 09:14:43 AM »

You know, actually, there is no need to apply vinegar afterwards to your hot water direct dye, if you are dyeing cotton. It doesn't do anything to set the dye. Vinegar is useful only in dyeing protein fibers, such as wool or silk.

If you are immersion-tie-dyeing, you will need to make your bindings a lot tighter than you have been doing, so that the ties resist the dyebath. Try using some waxed string, instead of rubber bands. Tie very tightly. You can get interesting color effects by binding tightly, simmering (cooking in water at 87°C) in one color of dyebath, rinse in cool water, untie, then retie in a different pattern and repeat the dyeing in another color. If, for example, you use a red dye in the first dyebath and a blue dye in the second dyebath, you will get purple where the two colors overlap, blue where the first set of ties resisted the dye, and red where the second set of ties resisted the dye.

It is possible to use hot water dye for multicolored tie-dyeing, using either of two methods. Here is a link to instructions for the first method, using the method recommended by the Rit Dye company, in which only part of the tied disk of fabric is immersed in each boiling dyebath. It is a very laborious procedure.

The other method is to apply a concentrated paint, made of your hot-water dye dissolved in a small amount of water, with salt added to the mixture after the dye is dissolved. Saturate the tied fabric with this dye paint, as in the instructions we use for cool water dyes, but then heat-set the dye by wrapping the fabric in plastic wrap (if it is still quite wet) or in paper (if you have allowed the dye to dry in the fabric) and suspending it in a pot above an inch or two of boiling water, so that the water does not contact the fabric, but the steam does. Do this steaming in a covered pot, checking as needed so that the water does not all boil away, for half an hour or longer.

Since these hot water dyes are not very washfast even when properly heat set, be careful to hand wash the garments you have dyed with it, one piece at a time so that running dye from one garment does not ruin another one, and wash only with cool water. Hot water will wash out direct dyes a lot more quickly than cool water will.

You will get better results if you can mail-order some reactive dyes, possibly from another country. Here is a link to my list of dye suppliers around the world. Tobasign, in Spain, sells Remazol type reactive dyes internationally; there are other dye companies in Europe that will ship internationally, as well, which sell Procion MX type reactive dyes. There is a special dye fixative used in the textile indurstry all over the world that can make your hot water dye very reasonably washfast, so that it lasts many washings without the color running or fading, but it can be difficult to find a retail source locally for this product that will sell you only the small quantities you need.

Paula
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Cairo-Dye
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« Reply #2 on: July 28, 2007, 12:21:28 PM »

hey...
that was really useful.... cheesy
yes.. i guess i have to make it tighter and lose the rubber strings...
i'll try hot baths 1st.. i don't think the cold method will resist washing as the 1st one....
i'll inform you with my resolts and a picture of the product  grin
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Cairo-Dye
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« Reply #3 on: July 29, 2007, 02:29:07 AM »

hey...
i had a suggestion from a friend to use pebeo colors : http://www.pebeo.com/asp/prod/fiche.asp?lang=us&id=25 , and mix it with water to be as like this cool solution you use...
do you think it will work?
and do i have to wet the tshert before applying ?

thanks again!
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pburch
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« Reply #4 on: July 29, 2007, 03:00:15 AM »

Pebeo's Setacolor fabric paint will work on cotton, as well. You should try it both with and without prewetting the fabric, for different effects. Fabric paint is not at all the same as fabric dye, but both are worthwhile, each in its own way. (See my page about "Fabric Paints: a different way to color fibers".) There are different techniques you can use. Try sun printing with any transparent fabric paint.

Fabric paint, such as Setacolor, will need to be heat-set afterwards, but in a completely different way from dye. Dye is heat-set wet, using steam, to allow the dye to chemically react with the fabric. In contrast, the binders in fabric paint are melted into the fiber using a hot iron or a very hot commercial clothes dryer (home dryers usually cannot get hot enough). Follow the manufacturer's instructions.

Fabric paint can wear off of the surface of fabric, unlike dye. Always be sure, before laundering, to turn your fabric-painted garments inside out, and wash them by hand or on a delicate cycle of the machine, possibly putting your shirt into a lingerie net bag in the washing machine, to reduce the friction which gradually wears the paint off.

Paula
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