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Author Topic: what prochem colors to get?  (Read 2719 times)
km
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« on: May 29, 2008, 03:01:08 AM »

We are wanting to move beyond primary color's for our tie-dyes and there are so many color choices on prochem's site that its a little intimidating to know what colors will make for good tie-dye.

Is it best to only tie-dye with pure colors since the colors almost always overlap each other in some way? or is it not something to worry about. I've read paula's list of what dyes are pure but the list seems like it might be out of date.

so if anybody has any recommendations for colors they like or colors to avoid please let me know.

thanks
km
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pburch
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« Reply #1 on: May 29, 2008, 08:03:43 AM »

Can you tell me what might be out of date on my list? I try to keep it up to date and would be grateful to be notified of anything that's changed. As far as I've heard, there aren't any new pure colors available that aren't on it already, just new mixtures.

Premixed colors are fun in LWI, or if there's one that's your favorite color, and it's a good idea to buy a premixed black. Other than that, you'll get a lot more milage out of the unmixed colors.

Here's my list of the best dyes to get to expand your MX dye repertoire, once you're ready to go beyond the basic cyan, magenta, yellow, and black.

Paula
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km
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« Reply #2 on: May 29, 2008, 08:46:45 AM »

Can you tell me what might be out of date on my list? I try to keep it up to date and would be grateful to be notified of anything that's changed. As far as I've heard, there aren't any new pure colors available that aren't on it already, just new mixtures.

Premixed colors are fun in LWI, or if there's one that's your favorite color, and it's a good idea to buy a premixed black. Other than that, you'll get a lot more milage out of the unmixed colors.

Here's my list of the best dyes to get to expand your MX dye repertoire, once you're ready to go beyond the basic cyan, magenta, yellow, and black.

Paula


thanks for the link! I really want to start making some tie-dye that isnt so rainbow. I've seen some tie-dye in colors that look more pale or natural instead of super bright colors and they look really cool.

I just wasn't sure if your list on pure colors was up to date or not. only date I saw on the page was a link to the pdf file of it that said it was from 2005. So I didn't know how current the information was.

thanks
km



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Jaja
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« Reply #3 on: May 30, 2008, 05:22:44 AM »

No problem to mix tertiary colours from your primaries. I prefer to mix it from the concentrates.



I would consider buying mixes just in the case I would need huge amount of certain color.
Maybe it's your case...
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km
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« Reply #4 on: May 30, 2008, 07:03:58 AM »

Paula I just saw this today on dharma. http://images.dharmatrading.com/images/eng/products/fullsize/npcc-101.jpg

they have a new color they are calling "a pure very strong navy" mx-4r.

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pburch
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« Reply #5 on: May 30, 2008, 08:14:52 AM »

Oh, excellent! I suppose that this is probably the same navy blue that ProChem sells as blue MX-4GD, which is Colour Index reactive blue 168.

There's a chance that this is instead my favorite navy blue, Colour Index reactive blue 9. Standard Dyes used to call it navy MX-G, but Classic Dyes is now calling it reactive navy MX-4G. (Standard Dyes has a history of deliberately applying confusing names to their reactive dyes; other dye companies tend to reserve the purposefully confusing names for other dye classes, such as acid dyes. I think that Classic dyes is the outlet company for odds and ends from Standard Dyes.) I do not believe that the MX-4G name is correct. This navy is a little less green than the other navies. That's what I like about it. Over the years I've concluded that  "navy blue MX-3R" is most likely to be the correct name for reactive blue 9.

(I bought some reactive blue 9 from Standard Dyes something like eight years ago and it is still good and strong. This is amazing given that Procion dyes  normally have a shelf life of a year or two after purchase. I do not believe that reactive blue 9 is likely to last any longer than other dyes, as it seems to react as quickly as most; instead, I think that I happened to buy some particularly fresh dye that time, and there is a lead time of years built into our normal expectations of shelf life, to allow for the amount of time a dye will sit around at the manufacturer's, the wholesaler(s) who buys it and mixes it, and the retailer who sells it.)

Paula

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Marg
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« Reply #6 on: May 30, 2008, 02:05:32 PM »

I really like the earthtone/darker colors. Some of my favorites have been: olive drab, chocolate brown, berry, brightest blue, and terra cotta. My biggest piece of advice would be to not purchase more than the smallest amount of a new color, because VERY OFTEN, it doesn't look like the little square they post on the website or on a printed paper. I ordered some nutmeg that looked just terrible, like a dirty orange, on my shirts. So, although it is more expensive, I'd start with the 2 oz. size, find what you like and then buy bigger. I can say this about a color they call boysenberry, it won't penetrate the fabric, it just sits there and rolls off, and I've tried several types of cotton fabric. Don't buy it for traditional tie'dying. It's nice for LWI though. Peace and Good Luck! Marg
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tiedyejudy
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« Reply #7 on: May 31, 2008, 02:59:58 AM »

I had a hard time weaning myself off of the bright colors at first, but have done what Marg suggested: start with a very small amount first, to see if I like the color, then get more if I do.  I have added the following to my stash from Dharma: Seafoam green - great for LWI, not so great for direct application;
Plum Blossom, Cayman Island Green, Aquamarine, Havanna Brown, Camel, Rust Brown, Chocolate Brown, Charcoal, Dark Green.  Here is a picture of one of my latest LWI's for a friend who really prefers 'muted' colors:

This was done with 2 LWI dyebaths.  For the first, I used light turquoise, camel, and a light mixture of dark green; for the second, I used more camel and havana brown. 
Judy
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km
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« Reply #8 on: June 10, 2008, 07:24:18 AM »

we got a few more colors from dharma this time. we now have the following.

from jacquard
yellow mx-8g(lemon)
red mx-5b(magenta)
turquoise mx-g(turquoise)

from dharma
yellow mx-gr(golden yellow)
orange mx-2r(deep orange)
red mx-8b(fuchsia)
blue mx-2g(cobalt)

I really like the orange mx-2r a lot.



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steve
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« Reply #9 on: June 10, 2008, 12:32:22 PM »

You will learn to love Yellow MX-GR. It is great for breaking out of the rainbow tie-dye. It stands on its own as a great hue, but also functions well as an "overlap" or for mixing.

I'd add Blue MX-G next. Pricey, but sometimes it is exactly what is needed.

You also really could use a respectable black.

Steve
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km
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« Reply #10 on: June 10, 2008, 03:38:38 PM »

oh yeah we have black cwna I forgot to post it. we don't mix up black everytime we dye though. we are still kind of noobs at using it effectively though.

I will add blue mx-g to our list of dyes we want. thanks for the recommendations!

I really want to play around with mixing greens next. it seems like one of the colors I use a lot but I haven't really put much thought/time into mixing different shades of it.



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pburch
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« Reply #11 on: October 10, 2008, 03:04:55 PM »

Paula I just saw this today on dharma. http://images.dharmatrading.com/images/eng/products/fullsize/npcc-101.jpg

they have a new color they are calling "a pure very strong navy" mx-4r.

It turns out that "130 Strong Navy" is not a pure unmixed color. (See http://www.pburch.net/drupal/?q=node/727.)

Paula



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