1. Use the
right type of dye with a
reliable recipe. Never tie-dye cotton or rayon with Rit dye. Use Procion MX dye or other fiber reactive dyes. Most tie-dye kits are good, but avoid the Rit and Magic Strings tie-dye kits.
2. Use adequate warmth and time. Leave your tie-dyed items damp overnight at 70°F or warmer. If your dyeing studio is too cold, find a way to place your tie-dyes in a warm place overnight. See
What is the effect of temperature on fiber reactive dyes?3. Use only non-stain-resistant 100% natural fibers, or rayon. Stain resistant and permanent press surface finishes will repel dye. For brightest colors, use only mercerized cotton, or rayon: both dye much brighter than unmercerized cotton. Don't try to tie-dye polyester (unless you use special polyester dyes with a special technique, both completely unlike tie-dyeing cotton).
4. Add water softener. The right stuff is sodium hexametaphosphate. Don't use phosphate-free Calgon or similar liquid grocery store water softeners that are phosphate-free; the polycarboxylate interferes with dye uptake. Household water softening systems that are based on salt usually work fine, but are installed only on the hot water line. See
Dyeing with hard water.
5. Use enough dye. The dye should be too dark after you have applied it, because about half of the dye will fail to attach. Wash out the unattached excess dye, after allowing plenty of time, with one washing in cold water without laundry detergent (or with Synthrapol), then two washings with laundry detergent or Synthrapol in very hot water (140°F).
6. Don't forget the
soda ash!
For more tips on how to make sure you get the maximum brightness from your colors, see
My colors are not very bright. What did I do wrong?, which is part of the
Frequently Asked Questions About Dyeing (and related issues) pages on my site about hand dyeing.
Good luck. When you get to the bottom of what's been making your tie-dyes pale, you will be able to make incredibly intense, bright tie-dyes.
Paula
