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Author Topic: Revisiting RESISTS again.....Questions?????  (Read 532 times)
mishoga
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« on: September 23, 2009, 03:01:56 AM »

Hello fellow dyers. I really need your advice as I'm in quite a bind for some time now.
I'm in the process of making samples as I am getting ready to mass produce/outsource some of my designs. Been having a difficult time with resists and spending many hours making the same designs over and over. I am not happy with the results.

I'm not too keen on starting the whole batiking thing.
I was religiously using Blue Elmers' Glue as a resist but sometime over the summer (and of course when I had a big order with a time frame) all the sudden something changed. I could no longer wash out the glue. It hardened all my designs. Like a dope I thought it was something I did wrong so I tried several times only to ruin more garments and waste precious time.
I've been trying to discharge designs out but not getting crisp lines and complete white background.
I purchased some chemicals from ProChem and was hoping there were some instructions on how to use them but when I received them, it was just the products in a bag. I checked their website but even those instructions are very vague.

I purchased
Cold Wax Resist
Presist
and
Sabra Silk Resist.

I know that the Sabra needs to be applied to a very light fabric.

I work mostly with Cotton/Lycra or Cotton/Spandex garments. I do have a line of 100% Cotton Tissue Tees and that's what I was going to use the sabra for.

What do I have to do with these resists? Do I need to let them dry after application?
I know I can't use them in a dye bath but I saturate some of my garments in several color blends.

Please give me any and all advice as I am very frustrated. I just don't get what went wrong with the Elmer's. My top selling designs are created with that technique and now I'm lost.

Thank you in advance
Mishy
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Jaja
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« Reply #1 on: September 25, 2009, 01:49:34 AM »

I have not used resists from your list except for cold wax - that is not suitable for immersion dyeing. Better check that feature for others as well if you do immersion.

I can't help more but wish you to solve that out!
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tiedyejudy
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« Reply #2 on: September 25, 2009, 02:24:25 AM »

I'm not too keen on starting the whole batiking thing.
Mishoga, if you run out of options, do try soy wax batik!  I have been using it for a couple of years now, and have had good results.  I use it in low water immersion dyeing with no problem, and it washes out in the hot water I use in my washing machine when I launder the garment with synthrapol.  It melts at a lower temperature than parafin or beeswax.  I usually paint it on with a brush, but you can use the tjantings or other tools to apply it (i.e., stamping with metal or wood objects, etc.).  I get soy wax flakes from Dharma, but I understand Prochem carries it as well, and I have been told the 'pillar wax' is the best to get.  I bought a cheapie deep fryer with thermostat at Wal-mart, and keep the wax in it all the time so it's ready to re-heat.  But the big deal with soy wax is it doesn't need to be ironed out, doesn't need toxic chemicals to remove it from the garment... just the hot water from your washer, and it leaves the fabric with no change in the feel.  That's what I always hated about batik, is the stiffness that you felt even after doing all the things you were supposed to do to remove the wax.
Hope this helps!
Judy
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ktaltre
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« Reply #3 on: September 25, 2009, 02:12:22 PM »

I'm sorry to hear that the elmers blue glue stopped working for you.

I second Judy's suggestion of soy wax. Here's Dharma's page on soy wax:
http://www.dharmatrading.com/html/eng/3632352-AA.shtml

ProChem's cold wax needs to dry, Presist needs to dry.
A pdf downloaded from Prochem says that Sabra Silk Resist can be used wet or dried.
k. taltre
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mishoga
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« Reply #4 on: September 26, 2009, 01:10:49 AM »

Thank you so much for responding girls.
I think I am going to try to soy as I already have a packet here and I purchased this little wax melter from PROChem awhile back. I just need to purchase a natural bristel brush.
I'm so bummed with the elmers. It was so easy that wasy.
I'll let you know how it turns out. Man, I keep ruining so many clothes  sad
Thank again.

Wait one more question
On prochem's  cold wax, if it is dry and I saturate the garment with squirt sying will that break up that cold wax?

Hey, how's everyone's business doing?
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tiedyejudy
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« Reply #5 on: September 26, 2009, 02:16:51 AM »

One suggestion:  try experimenting on scraps of fabric instead of garments you intend to sell... that way you save money!
As for my biz, it's doing great this year!  I did our local Open Studios last weekend, and sold bunches, even some of my framed art pieces! 
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ktaltre
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« Reply #6 on: September 26, 2009, 02:13:30 PM »

ProChems pdf on cold wax says it is water soluble, so not to be used in immersion - all you can do is try your technique on scraps.
Yeah, practice on cheap stuff - acquire used t's or buy a pack of t's at a bigboxstore to play with.
k. taltre
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Jaja
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« Reply #7 on: September 27, 2009, 04:39:40 AM »

One more thought - what about to ask at Elmer's what they have changed in recipe, resp., what kind of thinner they suggest to get it out (if there's any way out). I've checked all their descriptions of the product that were saying "wash with water". So changes w/o notice are not fair.
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mishoga
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« Reply #8 on: September 27, 2009, 05:15:34 AM »

Judy, congrats that sales are good for you.

Jaja, I did contact Elmer's and they told me to wash in cold water. They said they haven't change anything. I'm wondering if my manufacturer purchased a new lot of fabric. Can't figure it out.

OK, I'm going to experiment with the chemical compounds I purchased from prochem and see what happens.
Thanks all again. You are all so helpful and knowledgeable.
Mishy
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