Favorite brands of shirts???

[Whit]

I have recently added tie dye to my festival store.  I have buddies that screen print and have a great connection on shirts.  I purchased a gazillion shirts to learn on and sell, but due to my lack of experience I am not sure if they are right for dying.  I am using Hanes Tagless 6.1.  I do want a heavier shirt, but am I compromising the look of the finished product with weight?  I understand for a crisper design that a lighter, thiner shirt would look better but for basic folds am I using the shirt that best fits my needs?

What shirts do you guys use?

Also, on the neckline of the shirt the soda ash seems to cause the dye to "roll" off.  I have somewhat corrected this problem by drying the ashed shirts in the dryer before folding, but there is still resistance.  Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Whit

[Releaf]

My daughter and I have been doing this as a business for five years.  We like the Gildan PFD shirts, which we buy from Dharma Trading.  They're 6.1 oz and that's really a fairly heavy weight (here in Florida, we sometimes get complaints that they're too heavy).  They're sewn with cotton thread and that makes a difference to our customers.  Some of them really don't like the look of white thread with tie-dye, but plenty of people really don't care.  We care, so we buy PFD shirts.  We have a problem with bindings resisting the dye, even on the PFD shirts, if we don't pre-wash them (with Synthrapol) before we dye them.  Pre-washing seems to solve the problem.  Drying the soda-soaked shirts out completely before dyeing only makes the problem worse, for us.  And it sure makes them harder to fold and tie.  We like them just damp for the folding and tying process -- if they're too wet, we get poor dye saturation.

Hope this helps.  Good luck with your tie-dye!

Releaf

[tiedyejudy]

Hi, Whit.  I usually use Guildan or Anvil T-shirts... usually about 5.5oz weight.  I always pre-wash them before dyeing.  And my process is to dampen the pre-washed shirts (I wash them as soon as I get them, then store in bins until I'm ready to dye them), then tie them, then soak in soda ash solution.  I then will let them sit for about a day to remove excess moisture before I apply the dyes.  I haven't had any problem with the dyes on the neck ribbing this way. 
Judy   

[pburch]

Just be sure you don't buy any 50% polyester shirts, or any shirts that are labeled  "stain resistant". Everything else is minor in comparison. I do like the shirts that are sewn with cotton thread.

-Paula

[steve]

Gildan 6.1 ounce (usually). Sometimes you can get the pfd ones at major wholesalers such as Broder--you might have to shop around a little. They will be a lot cheaper than Dharma.

[Whit]

Most people seem to recommend to tie then soak in soda ash.  I did this at first, but I didn't like the way that the sinew would loosen or fray.  I have recently tried a number of other ways to tie (ie rubber bands, twine, hemp...)I just ran into a ridiculous  amount of cheap waxed dental floss and I am pretty pleased with it.  I do wish it was dental tape, I think it would be a bit more forgiving on my hands.  The thin cord is trying to slice my fingers like cheese. 
I just started doing research on the WIKI about adding soda ash to the dye itself but I worry I multi task too much to give myself a 2 hour time limit.  I have a 7 month old and she likes a food that only a mother can provide. 

Thanks for the Gildan suggestion, when I am out of any size of the 145 shirts I just ordered, I am definitely going to check them out.

Has anyone ever ironed a fold to give it a crisp look?  If so, does it make enough of a difference to get my iron out?

[tiedyejudy]

Whit,
I confess that I don't do as many 'tied' shirts as I did in the beginning, since I have become addicted to Low Water Immersion dyeing.  But one solution to the loose sinew is to be sure you tie it really tight before soaking.  As for the dental floss, your fingers have my sympathy!  I use floss to do stitched designs, but have not tried it for tying.
I have ironed folds for things like bandanas, but not shirts.  I find if I dampen the shirt before folding, that helps better to give a crisp look to the design.
Judy

[2D4]

My two bits.......I actually soak in soda ash and lightly spin them out in the washer before folding......

Jo

[mustdye]

My two bits.......I actually soak in soda ash and lightly spin them out in the washer before folding......

Jo

I tie them wet after washing and then soda soak > spin cycle > dye.

When I tie with sinew I wrap the sinew around the washable markers that I use so I can pull it tight without slicing my finger.

My fave shirt is the Gildan 2000

[steve585]

I do the same soak/spin then fold/tie technique.

I get the Gildan 2000 PDF from S&S  (ssactivewear.com) for about $2

My two bits.......I actually soak in soda ash and lightly spin them out in the washer before folding......

Jo